Paharganj I: Korea on the cheap

Enter the dimmed confines of Dokebi Nara and it will take you places. You could be anywhere in the world once you are seated next to the dense-graffiti-laden walls. Hell, bring along a felt-pen and make your mark, as Korean Pop blasts through the speakers. You would be most welcome.

In it's own inimitable style, Delhi manages to throw up culinary surprises, every weekend. So it was last week that the Hipposaur was advised by a friend to check out the eating joints dotting the firangi by-lanes at Paharganj. And so he got together two other lost souls (Let's call then Jabbasaur and Bella, for fun) and after a quick Internet trawl (via Delhi Walla) they found nirvana, and kimchee in Paharganj.

Now Paharganj is this sleepy little locality, a few minutes away from the bulging heart of the city (Connaught Place, for the uninitiated). A combination of Jat-style abundance of bovines, garish shops selling local kitsch and a bunch of cheap places to eat. But mind you, the culinary offerings at Paharganj extend beyond the Dilli-Mughlai variety of food. While you'll get some half-decent tourist friendly lassis and curries, the real story unfolds in the tiny lanes and even smaller by-lanes in this melting pot of civilisations.

This episode of the Paharganj story, however begins in a tiny joint that only serves Korean food. Thanks to a steady flow of Korean tourists in this part of the world, the unpretentious restaurant on the second floor of the dilapidated back-alley building chugs along. To make your Korean experience even better, the friendly Nepali waiter, Sudeep, speaks in broken English. And (we're not quite sure why) they even feature a poster of the film, Jodhaa Akbar.

The story gets better, as they'll serve you a pint of beer for 60 Rupees. Their kimchee is strong, and their unpronounceable pork dishes are to die for. You'll get sticky rice on the side and while you're at it, you could also ask for their take on the sushi, available for a steal at 100 Rupees.

Oh, and there's a bunch of travel guides, comic books and novels (all in Korean, naturally) in a dusty little corner too.

Perchance you are in a mood to party, they'll let you order a bottle of Korean Soju. Dokebi Nara also happens to be smoker friendly. Reason enough for you to head there and soak in a bit of Korea in Dilli, the Hipposaur reckons.

Directions: Nearest Metro: Rajiv Chowk / RK Marg

Reach the Main Bazar at Paharganj, head to the T junction, where Ramdwara Road meets Main Bazaar Road. Ask for Navrang Hotel. You will be directed to a lane north of the Main Bazaar Road at the junction. When you reach Navrang, head to the second floor in the building and follow the signs that would read, quite simply, 'Korean Restaurant'. Get in and start ordering.

Map courtesy Google Maps: Approximate location indicated: